Thank You For Your Purchase (─‿‿─) _______________________________________________________________________________________________ This READ ME contains instructions for printing your new Anime Accurate Katana Man Cosplay! All files are in .STL format. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ IMPORTANT INFORMATION: This 3D model is intended for LARGE FORMAT FDM or SLA printers. This is my Version 3 sculpt of the Katana Man, and it has a plethora of quality-of-life improvements over my Version 2 sculpt. List of Notable Features: NEW Magnetic Assembly of all Primary Pieces. NEW Articulated Jaw Hinge System. NEW Elastic Slits on Face Plate. NEW more Accurate Hat Sculpt. NEW Improved Katana Arm wrist and Forearm Braces. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ All of my Chainsaw Man Devil Heads are designed to be as small and form-fitting as possible to avoid the dreaded oversized look that most other models end up having. But, most importantly, it's to achieve the most accurate possible appearance to the source. It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you carefully take your time to measure and scale the model to your proportions. Some of the best methods for getting accurate scale include using a digital caliper to get the width of important parts such as your cheekbones, cranium depth and width, etc. Also, slicing a thin disc cross-section of the model and printing it as a test to see if your head fits in, or my preferred method is downloading a 3D scanning app such as Polycam for example to your mobile device and making an accurate scale scan of your head, which you can scale the model around. This particular model is scaled to my head, and it is most likely that any scaling adjustments made will be upscaling. So, be sure to check the diameter of the magnet slots and rod holes inside the katanas after scaling, as you may need to purchase larger diameter parts to compensate. Using flexible materials for the neck and hat pieces can also greatly improve the fit of the head. It is also extremely important that you use a lightweight material for the katanas, especially the face katana, as it can be very heavy and negatively affect the assembly if not printed with a light material. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ List of required parts and tools for assembly ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Dremel, or similar rotary tool. Super Glue. Heat Gun. 56 Neodymium Disc Magnets, 8 x 3mm. Silk Ito Sageo Wrapping Cord for Japanese Katana Sword. 2 Chicago Screws, 4mm holes diameter, 8mm head diameter. 1" wide Elastic Bands. Large and medium rubber bands. Roughly 14' or 178" of 6mm OD Dowels or rods (material of your choice) (non-flexible recommended). EVA Foam sheet 2mm. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ INSTRUCTIONS: ________________________________________________________________________________________________ After measuring the model and confirming it's to your proportions, begin printing. For any parts that are too large to print in one piece, I recommend using techniques known as either PLA Welding or UV Resin welding, as they can effectively fuse parts together by either melting the plastic into each piece, making it as durable as a single print piece or fusing the resin together to achieve a similar effect. With FDM printers, there are tutorials for welding most materials. Refer to tutorials on Google to familiarize yourself with these methods. If printed in PLA, you will likely need to use a heat gun to heat up the various holes and slots so all the pieces can fit tightly. You can also use this to slightly morph the shape of parts for a more comfortable fit, if you so desire. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Face Plate: After ensuring that your dowels or rods fit into the Katana rod holes and the entire Katana assembles correctly, you should squirt some super glue into the holes and assemble the Katana onto the face plate. Now you can thread your elastic through the elastic slits using whatever method you prefer until you achieve a snug fit for the face plate. After this, you can line the inside of the face plate with EVA foam so that it is more comfortable on your cheekbones and nose. Lastly, you need to glue all the magnetic discs into the top of the face plate. I Also Included an additional Face Plate with No Katana for those who would prefer to make the katana out of foamboard. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Jaw: Start by gluing the jaw onto the chin. Then, after those are assembled, you can go ahead and line the jaw hinges up to the interior side of the face plate hinges and screw them together using the Chicago screws. After this, you can use a rubber band or a small piece of elastic to thread and tie them through the two small holes on the left and right interior of the jaws, and thread each elastic to the corresponding holes on the inside of the face plate located near the cheekbones. Lastly, thread a rubber band across the four holes on the inside of the chin. This will allow the jaw to be pulled open when you open your mouth and close back automatically. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Katana Grip: Use the silk ito sageo wrapping cord and wrap the Katana grip. You can find tutorials for this online. After the Katana grip is wrapped, you can glue the pommel and base onto the grip. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Neck: Glue all the magnets into place, and then glue the Katana grip into the slot on the back. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Hat: Glue all the magnets into the brim and the two at the front of the hat, as well as the hat crest. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Katana Arms: Follow the same procedure for the face Katana with both arms. Optionally, you can also use elastic bands that have silicone beads on them to help prevent the Katanas from sliding off your arms, so you don't have to clench them at all times. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Printing Settings: I would recommend printing on high detail and having infill on at least 10% for all pieces, with supports enabled for all. For all Katana pieces, make the wall thickness as thin as your machine is capable of to reduce the weight. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ When you print my models, I would love to see pictures of your cosplay! It means the world to me to see people enjoying my work! Please tag me on Instagram @Ben_And_Stuff. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ Important Notice: This 3D model is intended for personal use only. Any commercial use, reproduction, or distribution of this model is strictly prohibited. ________________________________________________________________________________________________ ♪♪┏(・o･)┛♪┗ ( ･o･) ┓♪♪┏(・o･)┛♪┗ ( ･o･) ┓♪♪♪┏(・o･)┛♪┗ ( ･o･) ┓♪♪┏(・o･)┛♪┗ ( ･o･) ┓♪ TRADUCCION DE LO DE LA BOCA: para la mandíbula tienes que pegar o derretir los 2 pines en sus agujeros respectivos dentro del gorro, de ahí puedes encajar la mandíbula en los dos también necesitarás instalar las 2 bandas elásticas en los ganchos de la mandibula y en los 2 ganchos más pequeños detrás de los pines de la mandíbula luego necesitarás coser y atar el elástico a través de los hoyos pequeños de la barbilla para que la boca pueda abrirse y cerrarse cuando el elástico pille tu mandíbula.